Morocco travel guide

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Morocco is so close to Europe that on a clear day you can see Spain from Tangier — though it feels another world away. Since independence from France in 1956, it has flourished as a confident, liberal Muslim nation. Some French customs have stuck, but there’s also Spanish influence in the north, the caravanserai legacy pushing up from the sand dunes of southern Africa where blue-turbanned Tuareg people still roam, and the Berber heritage of Morocco’s indigenous communities, particularly in the mountains.
This nuanced culture enriches the experience of visiting what is, without question, one of the world’s most diverse destinations. Africa’s most visited country welcomed almost 13 million international arrivals in 2019 — and for good reason. A string of imperial cities — Fez, Marrakesh, Meknes and Rabat — dominions of erstwhile sultans, lavished with palaces, souqs, mosques and ornate madrasas (religious schools), never fail to enthral tourists with their achingly photogenic street life and complex layers of history.
But there are also the Atlas Mountains, desert camps in the Sahara, the offbeat towns and villages of the northern Rif Valley, and blue and white bohemian coastal retreats stretching from north to south. Distinctive, delicately spiced Moroccan food is another highlight, as are the artisan traditions that make Morocco’s ancient medinas some of the best shopping malls in the world.
Main photo: The Sahara (Alamy)
Start in Marrakesh, with its sumptuous hammams*, Djemaa el Fna street food* and contemporary design boutiques, before retreating to a mudbrick oasis hotel with a pool in the High Atlas Mountains. Spend some days hiking to Amazigh valley villages, on an alfresco yoga retreat, or brave the summit climb up Jebel Toubkal* (4,167m), North Africa’s highest mountain.
Crossing the snow-sprinkled Tizi n Tichka high pass to the “Route of the Kasbahs”, the Sahara road forges down through palm groves and crenellated ksars (fortified villages) to the rock formations and yawning valley chasms of Todra, Dades and Draa – perfect for gentle hikes. The nearby Hollywood-famous ksar of Ait Ben Haddou*, which has featured in productions such as Lawrence of Arabia and Game of Thrones, is one of Morocco’s most beguiling sights.
A trip to Morocco should also involve floundering up at least one Saharan erg (dune). The golden sea at Erg Chigaga (accessed from M’Hamid) is the biggest expanse, peaking at heights of 30m, but the more popular Erg Chebbi (accessed from Merzouga) is equally arresting. Hop in a 4×4 or ride a camel to a desert camp* with the Amazigh for an unforgettable night of open fires under the Milky Way.
After the Sahara, swap desert sands for beaches by backtracking via Marrakesh to Essaouira* — a bohemian fortified fishing port that’s become hugely popular for its laid-back, arty air and high standards of tourist accommodation. Broad beaches running south — many blissfully empty — whip up some of the best winds for kitesurfing*. Taghazout, a barefoot surfer village, has soared in popularity in the past five years. Families and package-holiday crowds, meanwhile, often plump for Agadir, Morocco’s only major beach resort town, backed by the fertile Souss Valley where goats famously climb argan trees.
It would be easy to spend a month in Morocco without breaking stride. Cosmopolitan Casablanca is full of art deco architectural treasures. Fez’s medieval medina is one of the most utterly bamboozling urban centres in the world (tourists tend to love it or hate it), and its Fassi culinary heritage makes it a favourite spot for cooking classes. The lesser-visited imperial cities of Meknes and Rabat are also well worth a pitstop, and Meknes* is the best base for visiting the intoxicating pilgrimage town of Moulay Idriss and Roman ruins of Volubilis.
Morocco’s breadth of hotels is one of the country’s most noteworthy features. They range from historic boutique medina riads and five-star palatial international chains to coastal yoga retreats, luxury mountain lodges in the High Atlas (where you’ll find Richard Branson’s sumptuous Kasbah Tamadot*) and simple rural B&Bs.
The riad is as synonymous with Morocco as the beach hut is to Thailand. Designed around classical Islamic principles, a key feature is a leafy open-air patio with a central fountain. This traditional style of dwelling has dominated medina living in Moroccan cities for hundreds of years. Today, many have been restored as beautiful boutique hotels with varying levels of grandeur. You can find characterful backpacker riads with dorm rooms for less than £20 a night, rubbing shoulders with astounding riad palaces costing hundreds of pounds.
Some of the finest traditional Moroccan craftsmanship is on display in these hotels, with carved cedarwood doors, painted beamed ceilings, ornate plasterwork and copious zellij tiling in Islamic geometric designs. Some riads have private chefs, small hammams and even rooftop pools. To stay in one provides a privileged glimpse into the inner workings of the medina. The most exceptional are found in Marrakesh and Fez.
There are also a number of excellent country hotels with swimming pools, usually offering full board, that work well for winter sun chasers. Kasbah hotels* en route to the Sahara desert from Marrakesh, including some excellent five-star options, are another unique feature of the Morocco hotel scene. The (quite basic) Saharan desert camps at Erg Chebbi and Erg Chigaga are once-in-a-lifetime sleeps that deserve to be on your bucket list. For large groups, private luxury villas may provide a more affordable option.
The northwestern tip of Morocco is an excellent alternative holiday spot to the well-trudged sights around Marrakesh — especially for those keen to try a no-fly holiday, as it’s possible to take a direct ferry from Tarifa in Spain to Tangier. The area is also more accessible than ever thanks to the new Al Boraq high-speed train from Casablanca that fast tracks tourists to Tangier in just over two hours.
Though Tangier gained a bad reputation for hassle and petty crime in the early 2000s, investment has flooded in to this old favourite haunt of the Beat generation in the past five years thanks to a significant expansion of the nearby Tanger Med 2 port. The sea-facing medina and kasbah have been spruced up and, in 2019, the city’s first five-star riad opened.
After a spot of cafe-hopping in the footsteps of writers and rockstars in Tangier, take the bus or get a grand taxi down to the mural-washed white town of Asilah — a coastal art hub with 15th-century ramparts crashing into the Atlantic and a similar vibe to Essaouira, but fewer crowds.
From Asilah, you could forge inland to the refreshing towns of the Rif Valley. The slow-paced blue beauty of Chefchaouen*, trickling down a hillside, is a favourite of the Instagram set. It’s also worth stopping in Tetouam, equally alluring but often overlooked. This former capital of Morocco’s Spanish Protectorate (from 1912 to 1956) is one of the country’s premier artistic centres, with Spanish architecture surrounding a Unesco-listed ancient medina.
March to June and September to November are the best months for pleasant, warm weather; Morocco’s inland cities are best avoided in July and August, when it’s blisteringly hot.
Is Morocco safe?Yes, absolutely. There are dedicated tourist police in popular cities such as Marrakesh and Fez who speak English and are there to help if you encounter any issues. The biggest problem you’re likely to face is pickpocketing in the medina backstreets. It’s best not to flaunt your phone in the souqs and always keep your belongings close. Cat-calling and mild harassment is occasionally a problem for younger women in cities such as Marrakesh and Fez, but it’s as safe as anywhere to travel in Morocco as a lone woman.
Where should I avoid in Morocco?Don’t go hiking alone in remote areas of the mountains; take a registered guide who will make sure that your route passes through friendly communities. In any major city, it’s best to avoid wandering around quiet medina backstreets at night.
Is Morocco expensive?Broadly speaking, Morocco is neither as expensive as Europe or North America, nor as cheap as Asia. In Marrakesh, food and hotel costs are in line with many European destinations, but outside of the most popular tourist cities prices drop significantly. You can eat well for under £20 a head — even in Marrakesh. Private transportation can be pricey.
CurrencyMoroccan dirham
Inspired to visit Morocco but yet to book your trip? Here are the best packages from Tui* and British Airways*.
• Discover holiday packages to Marrakesh*• Discover holiday packages to Fez*• Discover holiday packages to Agadir*• Discover tours in Morocco*
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